Appearing as far back as 2500 B.C., signet rings have long been a symbol of family. It seemed only appropriate then to create a statement signet ring for Maria. Besides being a significant reminder of her loving family, a ring is also one of the easiest types of jewelry to wear frequently—it can go with any type of top no matter how casual or dressy.
In designing the ring, I strived for a clean look. The mabe pearl is set from underneath in a reverse bezel, and it is surrounded with a graduated half-circle of flush-set sapphires. I wanted minimal articulation of the surface so as not to distract from the colors of the pearl and sapphires. I also didn’t want the visual interruption of a thick bezel separating the pearl from the sapphires. Initially I had considered using more sapphire melee but the additional stones would likely make the ring too formal for regular wear. The sapphires are graduated around half of the pearl to suggest movement and continuity to allude to the future generations of Maria’s family.
I opted to design the ring in 18k yellow gold, believing that its rich, warm tone would best highlight the myriad colors in the ring. Applying a satin finish to the ring would also help the stone colors to stand out. To keep the weight down, the ring is hollow and has a gallery. Along the interior surface, I created a pattern of undulating circles that radiate out from a central oval, much like the waves of the oceans that Maria loves.
Meredith Young is the owner of Meredith Young Jewelry in Park City, Utah.