MJSA. Professional excellence in jewelry making and design.

Mark Grosser Bracelet

At What Price?

Breaking down a custom piece, fee by fee

Editor’s Note: When a customer had some leftover diamonds after selling her gold and having some larger gemstones re-mounted, custom jeweler Mark Grosser was only too happy to put those diamonds to use in a new bracelet for her. Here’s how Grosser of M. Grosser Jewelry Design in Carmel, Indiana, arrived at the final charge for the 14k white gold bracelet.

Design:

We don’t charge for design consultations, which usually take an hour to an hour and a half. For this project, I drew about 10 quick sketches of different styles to find out what type of style the client would want. Once she decided on a style, I drew several more quick sketches until we narrowed it down to this design and I drew a final concept. 

Total Fee: $0

Metal:

The long runs of channel-set diamonds had to be hand-fabricated be-cause it’s not really possible to successfully cast something that long. To create the bracelet, I used 14k white gold flat sizing stock measuring 3.5 mm x 2 mm (12 inches) and 2.5 mm x 2 mm (16 inches). 

Total Fee: $2,800

Stones:

As mentioned, all of the diamonds were left over from a previous re-mount job. The 120 diamonds (4.12 ctw) were all different sizes and had to be sorted out into an orderly layout.

Total Fee: $0

Labor:

It took four hours to assemble the bracelet and another hour to polish it, for which we charged $200 per hour. We charged $20 per stone to set the 120 diamonds. Finally, there was a $100 charge to rhodium plate the piece.

Total Fee: $3,500

Final Price:

$6,300

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